Grape expectations: what does the growth in vineyards mean for rural communities?

Viticulture – the cultivation and harvesting of grapes – is one of Britain’s fastest-growing agricultural sectors. In 2023 we had our largest ever grape harvest from which it is expected 20-22 million bottles of wine will be produced. Over the last 10-15 years there has been a significant increase in vineyard area in the UK. With the sector ripe for further expansion, what does this mean for rural communities? Jessica Sellick investigates. ………………………………………………………………………………………………..

Viticulture (Latin: vitis cultura, “vine-growing”) and viniculture (vinis cultura, “wine-growing”) involves the cultivation and harvesting of grapes. There are more than 10,000 types of grapes and blends; harnessed through 4 main methods (organic, biodynamic, Lutte raisonnée, natural) and 2 basic systems (cane pruning and spur pruning). Winemakers begin the harvesting process when the grapes reach their desired maturity (i.e., according to colour, size, taste, and sugar level). This typically takes place towards the end of summer and into the autumn. ‘Vinification’ is the transformation of grapes into wine and consists of several steps – destemming, crushing or pressing, settling and racking, and fermentation. Some wines are then matured before bottling (in oak casks, barrels, amphorae or vats). Blending followed by maturation processes is the means through which wine is bottled and finished.       

It was the Romans that formally introduced the vine to Britain in 43 BC. While a Roman vineyard in Northamptonshire covering 11 hectares has been identified, shreds of wine jars have been dated all the way back to the 1st century. Wine drinking was commonplace in roman villas, houses, farms and garrisons. While there is evidence of implements that could have been used for pruning vines, there is little sign that vineyards were actually planted in Britain as the Romans had strong trading links with France and Italy which made importing wine relatively straightforward.

The spread of Christianity towards the end of the Roman period led to renewed interest in vine growing – as churches and monasteries required wine for sacramental purposes they often built vineyards on their land.  But where viticulture was practiced it tended to be on a modest scale, with wine continuing to be imported from the continent. This led Britain, from the mid-1300s onwards, to become renowned for its expertise in selecting, importing, bottling and cellaring wine rather than producing it. The Black Death killed off vast numbers of land workers and saw monasteries and nunneries dissolved along with their associated vineyards. 

In 1860 Lord Palmerston supported the Government to apply free trade principles which led tax on imported wine to be reduced by 83%. English wine was therefore out-competed by producers in France, Spain, Italy and Germany. Consumer tastes also started to change with sweet, heavy, fortified wines from Australia and South Africa becoming more popular. 

During the First World War much of the land used for wine production was converted to crops, and wine production was not seriously taken up again until after the Second World War. The renaissance in viticulture during this period can be traced back to concerted effort of three individuals. Firstly, in 1946, to Ray Barrington Brock who set up a viticultural research station at his own expense at Oxted in Surrey. Secondly, Edward Hyams, who, between 1947 and 1948, planted vines for making wine using some of the sources identified by Barrington Brock. Thirdly, Major-General Sir Guy Salisbury-Jones, who created a tiny vineyard at Hambleton in Hampshire in 1951 – one of the first vineyards planted for producing wine for sale. Collectively, they trialled which grapes would grow and ripen in the British climate. The second commercial vineyard was planted in 1955 by Jack Ward, who owned a wine company in East Sussex. He introduced new varieties to the UK, such as Reichensteiner, Huxelrebe, and Schönburger, and was the first chairman of the English Vineyards Association (now Wines of Great Britain). During the 1960s more vineyards were planted, and new grape varieties introduced.

Researchers from the University of East Anglia (UEA), the London School of Economics, Vinescapes Ltd and Weatherquest Ltd have charted the potential for the sector over the next 20 years. The UK’s warmest years on record have all occurred since 2002, and heatwaves like those seen in the summers of 2018 and 2022 contributed to record UK winegrape yields – with an average of 48 hectolitres per hectare (hL/ha). Warmer growing seasons (between April and October), increased investor confidence and widening variety and geographical suitability are all leading to a growth in UK vineyards. Nevertheless, within a 20-year period, there are projected to be ‘better’ and ‘worse’ grape growing seasons in the UK, and this is in common with other wine-producing regions of the world. With interest in growing grapes and making wine increasing, what does this mean for rural communities?  

How many vines are we growing? Wines of Great Britain (WineGB) undertakes an annual survey to capture industry statistics on production, grape growing, sales, tourism and employment. The latest data, published in July 2024, reveals how: 

  • In 2023, 87 new vineyards were registered, bringing the total number to over 1,000 for the first time. There are currently 1,030 vineyards in the UK – a 9.2% increase since the last annual report. 
  • Winery figures have risen from 209 in 2022 to 221 in 2023. 
  • The total area under vine is 4,209 hectares, representing a growth rate of 123% in the last 10-years. 
  • Production in 2023 totalled 161,960.84 hectolitres, the equivalent of 21.6 million bottles, up 77% on 2022.
  • English and Welsh wine sales grew by 10% from 2022 – reaching 8.8 million bottles in 2023: with sales of sparkling wine rising by 187% since 2018, from 2.2 million bottles to 6.2 million in 2023; and sales of still wine increasing by 117% over the same period, from 1.2 million to 2.6 million bottles. 
  • The wine sector is the fastest growing agricultural sector in the UK. 

WineGB has designated 2024 the ‘year of growth’ and is supporting producers to find new routes to market. This includes providing targeted support for wine tourism, the UK market and exports; and facilitating a series of working groups to harness expertise from across the industry to develop a coherent narrative to support sales. 

Champagne houses from across the world are also increasingly interested in making and selling English wines. Pommery now makes wine in Hampshire and more recently, in September 2024, Tattinger launched wine from Domaine Evremond vineyard in Chilam (Kent) – with construction underway on a new visitor centre and storage facility. Jackson Family Wines from the United States has begun producing wine from vineyards in Kent, Sussex and Essex; and Henkell Freixnet (Spanish) recently purchased Bolney Wine Estate in Sussex.   

Where are the vineyards? Currently the most planted counties in the UK are: 

  1. Kent (26%). 
  2. West Sussex (15%). 
  3. East Sussex (13%). 
  4. Hampshire (10%). 
  5. Essex (8%). 
  6. Surrey (3%). 
  7. Gloucestershire (2%). 
  8. Devon (2%). 
  9. Dorset (2%). 
  10. Suffolk (2%). 

A viticulture report published by Strutt & Parker in 2023 highlights the key planting trends and demand for land on which to establish vines:  

  • The UK’s vine area is growing faster than in any of the top 25 wine-producing countries. 
  • Specialist mapping software to identify land suitable for growing vines finds the best sites have free-draining soils, gentle south-facing slopes that are not susceptible to strong winds and late frosts, are less than 100 metres above sea level, and where average temperate and sunshine hours are at their highest. Many areas now suitable for vines remain undeveloped. 
  • Very little land suitable for vines comes to the open market, with buyers approaching land owners of suitable sites and negotiating with them to sell. The price of land suitable for vines typically ranges from £16,000 to £20,000 per acre, with established vineyards selling for more than £35,000 per planted acre. In 2023 average prices were £1,000 per acre (higher than they were in the previous 12-months). The majority of buyers are people who have had a successful career in business and are looking for a change in direction. Where buyers are looking for a  small plot (10-12 acres) prices can rise to £25,000 per acre – this is because there is more competition for smaller plots of land.  
  • Leasing of land on which to establish vines is becoming increasingly common. Landowners typically need to be willing to grant a lease of 25-40 years, but rental values mean they could generate 2-3 times what they might be offered to rent land for arable production. 
  • £480 million has been invested in vineyards and wineries over the past five-years. The upfront costs of establishing a vineyard are significant and it is takes five-years before the vines reach full productivity.
  • Buyers are increasingly looking for plots in Norfolk, Suffolk and Essex which share many of the characteristics of East and West Sussex, Kent, Surrey and Hampshire, but where there is more untapped potential for planting vines. 

WineGB estimates that plantings in the UK will grow to 7,600 hectares by 2032, producing up to 24.7 million bottles of wine. 

CLA members have shared their insights into the reality, challenges and opportunities of running a vineyard: 

  • Find the right site, do your research and get expert advice. Initial set-up costs are high, there is a long time to wait for results, and making changes later will be very difficult. 
  • Running a vineyard is hard work, and you need to look at all the processes: planting, making, selling…Being biodynamic and producing pét-nat and orange wine helps to differentiate us from other vineyards. Both wines are popular with younger people, who also tend to be more aware of sustainability and the environment.  
  • Contract growing can be a good diversification activity for farmers if they have a suitable site, particularly where it can be inter-layered with picking other crops. Contact local wineries to see if grapes are needed and enter into a long-term contract. English wine is only about 1% of all the wine drunk in the UK, so we should aspire to get that up to 5% – although it will not be easy, especially on price.

Vineworks has also published its top tips for farmers looking to diversify into viticulture.

What has Government been doing to help the wine industry? When the UK left the European Union the Government incorporated the existing framework of EU wine legislation into domestic law. It also announced a Smarter Regulation programme of regulatory reform. This has led Government to undertake consultations, implement reforms and/or new legislation aimed at stimulating  increased competition in the domestic marketplace, promoting innovation, and improving sustainable practices without compromising on standards. So far, changes to the regulatory framework have taken place in 3 phases:   

  • Phase 1: the Wine (Revocation and Consequential Provision) Regulations 2023 which introduced simplified labelling rules for the wine trade and which came into effect on 1 January 2024. Packaging requirements for sparkling wine were liberalised to reduce costs and support recycling, and restrictions on hybrid grape varieties removed to give industry the freedom to innovate. 
  • Phase 2: the ‘Wine (Amendment) (England) Regulations 2024’ updated the list of approved oenological practices and introduced a definition for ice wine. The regulations came into force on 15 July 2024. 
  • Phase 3: in April and May 2024 the Government carried out a consultation on further plans to reform assimilated EU laws. This included seeking views on: the carbonation of imported bulk wine; the sweetening and other adaptation of imported wine; producing wine from imported grapes and grape must; amendments to the labelling of ‘British wine’; no and low alcohol wine and changing the minimum alcohol content of wine; and new arrangements for recording approved oenological practices. The Government is currently analysing feedback.  

Individual wine businesses have been able to apply for Government funding, including funds administered by the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra). This has included applying for support under Environmental Land Management (ELM) schemes and through the Farming Investment Fund. 

The Kent Downs National Landscape team delivered a viticulture Test and Trial project for Defra. This explored how public goods can be delivered within a vineyard setting and how the impact of vineyards on landscape character could be mitigated. While the research found both capability and appetite from vineyards to become involved in schemes that reward environmental land management, there is a deficit of research into UK viticulture, particularly around which native insectary plants are most appropriate for use in UK vineyards. A series of actions were produced around: 

  • Creating land management plans with the assistance of expert help at no or limited cost to growers. 
  • Support for vineyards to take part in research programmes. 
  • Capital grants to support carbon reduction technologies and precision viticulture techniques that reduce pesticide use. 
  • Promoting permissive access and well-interpreted landscapes. 
  • Providing educational access and health and wellbeing opportunities. 

In April 2024, the Government announced it had set aside £1.5 million for a Future Winemakers’ Scheme (FWS) to help develop skills and provide jobs in the sector for the next generation of viticulturists. 

In July 2024, following a General Election, a new Labour Government was elected. The new Government has committed to being ‘mission-driven’ and has set out plans to focus their efforts on five key areas [or missions]: 

  1. Kickstart economic growth.
  2. Make Britain a clean energy superpower. 
  3. Take back our streets. 
  4. Break down barriers to opportunity. 
  5. Build an NHS fit for the future.  

The Wine and Spirit Trade Association (WSTA) has called on Government to work with industry to promote growth, cut red tape, and deliver an environmentally sustainable agenda. WineGB wants to explore how to create a fairer business environment for English and Welsh wine, and revisions to the duty system to allow for a fairer regime for home-grown wines that supports small businesses. More broadly, UK drinks sector representatives are calling on Government to cut taxes on alcohol and address business rates. 

On 30 July 2024 the Government launched a consultation seeking views on a series of proposals to revise the National Planning Policy Framework (NPPF) in England. The proposals are centred around delivering a headline target of 1.5 million new homes over the next 5-years. In practice, this may result in Local Authorities needing to identify more land which can be released for housing and other uses – resulting diversification opportunities for rural land owners on the one hand (e.g. housing, recreation, tourism) and in the loss of agricultural land on the other hand.

The Food Standards Agency (FSA) enforces wine regulations in England, Wales and Northern Ireland. The FSA’s role covers the production and marketing of wine (e.g. wholesalers, warehouses and vineyards). The FSA does this through a team of regional Wine Standards Inspectors and by following a set of procedures outlined in the Manual for Official Controls. The FSA also maintains the UK Vineyards Register which records areas under wine and production returns from producers.  

Retail premises come under the control of Local Authorities and their Trading Standards Teams. In May 2024 the Chartered Trading Standards Institute (CTSI) published research which found 96 of the 137 test purchases made by Trading Standards professionals were short measured. 41 test purchases were at a deficit of 5% or over. When broken down, 43% of wine was found to be short measured which, for the average wine drinker in the UK, equated to a loss of £2.20 per week and £114.40 per year.  Polling from CTSI also found a generational divide with three times as many people aged under 45 years of age supporting bars and pubs being able to pour spirits without using a spirit measure, compared to those over 45 years of age. CTSI is calling on the hospitality sector to ensure consumers get value for money by making sure they are correctly measuring the drinks that they are serving to customers.  

More recently, there is apprehension about whether the Government will increase alcohol duties  at the Budget on 30 October 2024 and if so, whether this will drive people away from pubs and restaurants.  

What are the impacts and benefits of viticulture for rural communities? Viticulture can diversify rural economies and support local employment. It is estimated that vineyards employ 17 times more people per hectare than traditional arable farming, and they offer staff a wide range of skilled roles (e.g. viticulturists, chemists, engineers, computer technicians, marketing and communications, hospitality etc). Data from WineGB suggests the sector will increase from the 2,300 people employed today to an estimated 30,000 by 2040. The majority of this growth will be concentrated in the South East of England. Workers tend to live close to vineyards signalling the need for housing, transport, education, leisure and recreation opportunities and access to other services to facilitate this employment growth.  

There is already a lack of skilled and experienced domestic workers to keep pace with the increasing acreage of vineyards. Plumpton College is the UK’s only wine centre of excellence in education, training and research; offering full-time, part-time and short courses for current and aspiring wine makers as well as producing 40,000 bottles of wine each year from its Rock Lodge Vineyard.  Workforce trends in the UK are replicated more widely, with global shortages of staff – which on the production side are linked to the seasonality of the work involved; and on the trade side in hotels and gastronomy. Research by ProWein found companies unable to pursue new business opportunities or cutting back on planned growth; with some looking to use automation and digitization to replace seasonal workers. We need to look at the skills we need to increase the workforce in the UK to meet the growth potential – this includes a stocktake of current and future workforce needs, looking at education and training provision, and what more can be done to recruit and retain workers.

Vineyards and wine producers draw on rural landscapes, soils, climate and a sense of place (terroir) to craft their wines. In this way ‘drink the view’ can promote the production and consumption of viticulture products that enhance the countryside. Alongside this, WineGB describes how wine tourism is a significant part of the industry, accounting for 25% of total income on average. Tourism increases the visibility of wines, and embeds the vineyard and associated business in the local community. Over 40% of overseas visitors to the UK could be interested in a visit to a vineyard generating a potential market of over 16 million people. 

Vineyards lead to changes in landscape appearance – raised, linear vines are different to arable crops and pastureland – which can lead to the loss of open views.   Back in 2021, the South Downs National Park Authority (SDNPA) undertook a viticulture growth impact assessment. Whilst recognising the South Downs is a working landscape, and a favourable location for viticulture and the production of high-quality wine, it is a nationally protected landscape. The study noted the potential harm that viticulture could do if its scale, location and environmental management are inappropriate. This led the SDNPA to publish a Viticulture Technical Advice Note (TAN) to ensure vineyards make a positive contribution to the overall character and appearance of the area. 

While wine production can deliver environmental benefits (e.g. carbon capture through vines, ground-cover plants), the application of pesticides, and CO2 emissions through vineyard machinery and land use disturbances to soil health and biodiversity can be detrimental.  Similarly, the winemaking process and sale and distribution of wine also has environmental impacts (e.g. high electricity consumption during the harvesting period, packaging, transport). The Sustainable Wines of Great Britain (SWGB) Certification Scheme, launched by WineGB back in 2020, now has 24 certified members through its winery and vineyard audits. SWGB includes a Carbon Calculator to measure the number of tonnes of CO2 generated per hectare of vineyard and/or per bottle of wine produced. In April 2024 Denbies Wine Estate became the first vineyard and winery in the UK to achieve Net Zero certification to the UK Carbon Code of Conduct standard (UKCCC) – sequestering more carbon than it emitted through leaving 4 hectares of vineyard in a natural state, installing solar panels on the winery building, applying environmental best practices to all capital investment. 

There is a plethora of international work looking at hybrid grape varieties, wine tourism, resilience to climate change, the application of technology and Artificial Intelligence, archaeology, heritage, architecture and workforce. Studies have also explored the role of vineyards and wineries in supporting development in disadvantaged rural areas and less favoured areas. Back in the UK, while individual studies have been carried out (e.g. grape varieties, adaptation to climate change, agroecology), more work is needed if we are to build an evidence base to collate the impact and benefits of viticulture on rural communities. 

Where next? While the domestic winemaking sector in the UK is still comparably small compared to other parts of the world, there is growing international awareness and interest in UK-grown grapes and wines. Indeed there has been a boom in winemaking underpinned by climate change making viticulture one of our fastest growing agricultural sectors. But land is a finite resource and deciding how it is used and managed is under discussion. With a new Government in place, and a Budget due at the end of October, how can we ensure the countryside remains a living, working, functional and dynamic space; and what might this mean for the planned and future growth of vineyards and winemaking and the role they can play in rural communities? Watch this space.   

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The title of this blog has been adapted from an article published by Griffiths-Lee et al in the Journal of Agriculture and Sustainability. 

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Jessica is a project manager at Rose Regeneration and a senior research fellow at The National Centre for Rural Health and Care (NCRHC). She is currently evaluating a service that supports older people to maintain their independence; and reviewing neighbourhood-based initiatives (NBI). Jessica also sits on the board of a charity supporting  rural communities across Cambridgeshire and is a member of her local Patient Participation Group. 

She can be contacted by email jessica.sellick@roseregeneration.co.uk. 

Website: http://roseregeneration.co.uk/https://www.ncrhc.org/ 

Blog: http://ruralwords.co.uk/ 

Twitter: @RoseRegen